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巴宝莉(Burberry)抵制新疆棉花官方英文原文:

moxiang 爱搞机 2021-03-25 15:15:30

  巴宝莉多次在新闻中抵制新疆棉花,相关新闻链接及原文如下:
  部分链接要飞机才能看。

  BBC版本:https://www.bbc.com/news/business-55319797

  其他版本:https://www.thefashionlaw.com/burberrys-sustainability-bond-raises-issues-about-fashions-reliance-on-chinese-cotton/

  BBC原文:

Farmers pick cotton during the harvest on October 21, 2019 in Shaya County, Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region of China.

IMAGE COPYRIGHTGETTY IMAGES

UK businesses must investigate where they get their cotton to avoid buying material grown by slave labour, according to a member of an influential parliamentary committee.

  The call comes in the aftermath of a BBC investigation.

  Documents show that China is forcing hundreds of thousands of Uighurs and other minorities into hard labour.

  "UK businesses must now wake up to these disturbing realities," said MP Nusrat Ghani.

  Businesses must "stop denying knowledge of what is taking place, examine their supply lines rigorously and make sure they are absolutely clear that they are not profiting from slave labour and abuse of the Uighurs", said Ms Ghani, who investigated the issue for the Business, Energy and Industrial Strategy (BEIS) Committee.

  New Uighur cotton evidence 'game changer' for fashion brands

  The BBC approached 30 major international brands. Marks and Spencer, Next, and Tesco said they have policies in place that ensure products sourced from China do not use raw cotton from Xinjiang, while Burberry said they do not use any cotton from China at all.

  Others, including those who don't source direct from Xinjiang, were unable to guarantee its cotton didn't enter supply chains elsewhere.

  Nine did not respond.

  Ms Ghani praised the companies, but said more firms should follow suit.

  Peter Andrews, head of sustainability at the British Retail Consortium, said: "Protecting the welfare of people and communities is fundamental to our members' sourcing practices, and retailers are investigating their supply from China, particularly from the Xinjiang region, to ensure forced labour is not used and high standards are being upheld."

  The UK passed anti-slavery legislation in 2015 under the Modern Slavery Act.

  巴宝莉方面:

  Burberry’s Sustainability Bond Raises Issues About Fashion’s Relationship With Chinese CottonSeptember 30, 2020 - By TFL

  A couple of weeks before Chanel made headlines for itsnewly-issued 600 million euro ($699 million) sustainability-linked bond, Burberry announced that it would issue “the first sustainability labeled bond issued by a luxury company.” In furtherance of its “longstanding commitment to sustainability and dedication to using its position and influence to drive social and environmental improvements,” the British brand revealed that it would offer up a sterling sustainability bond with green strings attached.

  Burberry says that the £300 million ($385 million)debt instrument– which will be due in September 2025 – is subject to targets set out in its Sustainability Bond Framework, making the bond the latest effort in the socially responsible debt market, which Bloomberg says is “increasingly grow[ing] beyond utilities, banks and governments” to include the likes of fashion houses, luxury automakers, and telecommunications companies across the globe.

  As for Burberry’s bond and relevant sustainability framework, it proves interesting for a few reasons, including the specific language about the brand’s sourcing of cotton. In itsSustainability Bond Framework, which was issued on August 2020, Burberry notes that one of its core goals comes in the form of ensuring cotton sustainability. Or more specifically, Burberry aims to “procure 100 percent of cotton more sustainably by 2022, using a portfolio approach, [which] includes working with partners, such as the Better Cotton Initiative and Textile Exchange, as well as exploring new sources, including organic and regenerative cotton.”

  According to the Sustainability Bond Framework, “Leather, cotton and cashmere production account for c.30% of the Group’s overall environmental impact, and this production has significant impacts on rural livelihoods and ecosystems within Burberry’s supply chain.” As such, the brand is working to clean up its act.

  The emphasis on cotton, in particular, is worthy of attention, as it potentially thrusts Burberry into the midst of a larger battle over cotton coming out of China and its headline-making Xinjiang region, where native and Western companies, alike, are increasingly being criticized over their alleged ties to forced labor.

  Fashion Brands & Chinese Cotton

  Right around the time that Burberry revealed its sustainability bond, the U.S. government was mulling potential new import restrictions on goods coming from Xinjiang, a major cotton-producing region in the northwest of the Chinese mainland that has been the subject of media and regulatory attention in light of alleged human rights abuses that come in connection with the country’s practice of mass detentions and forced labor that targets as many as 1.8 million Muslim Uighur and Kazakh minorities.

  On September 14, the Trump administration confirmed specific import bans on a number of different types of goods that are made and/or processed in certain state-owned facilities. Among those black-listed products? Cotton that is produced and processed by Xinjiang Junggar Cotton and Linen Co., Ltd.

  Despite speculation about far-ranging prohibitions on cotton and other products coming out ofXinjiang, the U.S.’s cotton-specific import ban is limited in scope. Regardless, it serves to put a spotlight on Xinjiang’s robust cotton sector as a whole – which accounted for a whopping 85 percent of all Chinese-grown cotton in 2019, with China producing about 22 percent of global cotton supplies,according to a reportfrom the Center for Strategic and International Studies – and the large-scale reliance by Western brands on the region’s output.

  “Global fashion brands source so extensively from Xinjiang that a coalition [of more than 170 human rights and trade groups] estimates that it is ‘virtually certain’ that as many as one in five cotton products sold across the world are tainted with forced labor and human rights violations occurring there,”the Guardianreported this summer. “Virtually the entire [global] apparel industry” – high fashion and luxury names, included – “is tainted by forced Uighur and Turkic Muslim labor,” in large part due to the difficulty that comes with tracing the origins of garments and their composite parts in multi-national brands’ sweeping supply chains.

  Against that background, there is a growing amount of “pressure on brands and retailers to pivot quickly to identify and contract with other cotton supply sources in order to avoid [potential] major disruptions to their supply chains,”according to Cozen O’Connor attorneysDanielle Garno, Samuel Mogensen, and Heather Marx. They note that while the recent bans enacted by U.S. Customs and Border Protectiondo “not go as far as to ban the import of all cotton products from China into the U.S.,” they, nonetheless, put the industry as a whole “on notice that cotton and other products from this region are becoming controversial, and that further negative state action may follow should the situation persist.”

  “Indeed, the European Union is already working on legislation mandating due diligence on environmental and human rights issues across the supply chain,” they state, recommending that fashion companies “be proactive in identifying potential problems or areas of vulnerability in their supply chain, and [be] prepared to engage with stakeholders to consider improvements as these issues continue to grow in importance.”

  With this in mind, the approach being taken by Burberry – which has focused on overhauling its workings when it comes to sustainability aftercoming under fire for physically destroyingtens of millions of dollars of unsold products as recently as 2018 – is a compelling, albeit almost-certainly-challenging, one.

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